How to Build a Bale Feeding Area That Stays Dry All Year

Learn how to create a bale feeding area that stays dry year-round, protecting your feed and reducing waste for healthier, happier livestock.

17 min read


Moldy hay drains herd health and cash flow, yet most bale feeding pads lack engineering specs.
Goat owners need practical designs that cut spoilage, keep animals healthy, and reduce feed-cost waste.
Targets in this guide include reducing spoiled bales by 75% and keeping the pad usable 95% of winter days.
Lone Tree Hill observations showed dispersed bales improved greening and water retention, while outcomes vary with soil and rainfall.
This step-by-step guide fills common DIY omissions with exact slopes, compaction depths, drainage specs and material quantities.

Related reading: bale feeding area tips | compare hay feeders by cost | round bale feeder designs

How to Build a Bale Feeding Area That Stays Dry All Year — Why a dry feeding area matters

Dry storage and feeding directly reduce health risks from mold and mycotoxins that cause digestive upset and respiratory problems in livestock.

Keeping hay dry improves feed-cost efficiency by cutting forage spoilage and lowering replacement purchases, a primary driver for building a proper pad.

A measurable build must tie to animal health and dollars saved, not just aesthetics or convenience.

A well-designed pad defines targets operators can track.

Set clear performance metrics before construction and measure against a baseline season.

  • 75% reduction in spoiled bales versus current practice
  • 330 mud-free access days per year (approximate target for active herds)
  • Runoff leaving the pad ≤5% of precipitation volume for typical storms
  • Pad uptime in winter: 95% of winter days usable for feeding
  • Feed waste target: ≤2 lb/head/week or ≤5% of forage offered
  • Inspection frequency: weekly during wet season, biweekly in dry months, and a check within 48 hours after heavy storms

Bale-grazing results from the 15-acre Lone Tree Hill trial suggest dispersing bales reduces concentrated spoilage and can improve groundcover and water retention, but outcomes depend on soil type and rainfall.

Many DIY posts describe intent but omit dimensions, slope percentages and surfacing specs; subsequent sections provide those exact build parameters and testing targets.

Site Selection for a Bale Feeding Area That Stays Dry All Year

Site choice controls drainage needs, pad specifications, and environmental risk to nearby water resources.

Prefer ground that falls away from streams and ditches and stays outside riparian buffers.

A simple field texture test separates clay from sand and guides needed drainage measures.

Watch for spring puddles, saturated soils, or seepage as signs of a high water table.

Build a raised pad or underdrain when surface saturation persists through the grazing season.

Confirm tractor access, prevailing wind, and distance to feed storage before selecting a final site.

  • Distance to barn/feed storage (100–500 ft)
  • Slope direction (falls away from water)
  • Proximity to waterways (outside riparian buffer)
  • Compaction signs (hardpan, sparse vegetation)
  • Soil type quick test (ribbon for clay, gritty for sand)
  • Water-table indicators (puddles, boggy spring conditions)
  • Tractor and loader access (12–14 ft minimum lanes)
  • Prevailing wind (shelter placement and dust control)
Site Factor What to look for Action if present
Soil type Clay ribbon or sandy gritty texture Clay: deeper decompaction and raised pad; sand: lighter surfacing
Slope Direction and percent fall from pad area Orient pad to drain away from water; target 1–2% finished slope
Proximity to water Distance to streams, ditches, wetlands Move site outside buffer or add containment/drainage to prevent runoff
Compaction signs Standing water, poor vegetation, hard soil surface Rip or subsoil 6–12" before placing aggregate
Access Width for loader and tractors, turning radius Provide 12–14 ft lanes and level approach for equipment
Flood history Past flooding, high-water marks, seasonal inundation Choose higher ground or design raised pad with controlled outlet

Grade and Ground Preparation to Make a Bale Feeding Area That Stays Dry All Year

Proper grading and ground preparation set the baseline for a pad that drains reliably and resists deep rutting under livestock traffic.

Lone Tree Hill’s history of tilled, compacted clay is a clear example where deeper mechanical decompaction is necessary before placing aggregate and surfacing.

Construction specifications below give exact slope, ripping depth and compaction targets that many DIY pieces omitted.

Follow this step sequence during site prep and record measurements at each stage.

  1. Clear vegetation and topsoil from the pad footprint to expose competent subgrade.
  2. Decompact to 6–12 inches on compacted clay using a subsoiler or ripping tines; lighter soils may need 4–6 inches.
  3. Establish rough grade with a 1% minimum finished slope; 1.5–2% recommended in high-runoff areas.
  4. Install a 6–8" compacted subbase of crusher-run or dense-graded aggregate where traffic is heavy.
  5. Place a nonwoven geotextile over prepared subgrade to separate soil and aggregate and prevent migration.
  6. Compact the subbase in 2–3" lifts with a plate compactor to achieve approximately 95% Proctor equivalent for the sub-base.
  7. Perform final grading and set wearing course height to provide the designed runoff path to swales or outlets.

Compact each aggregate lift to target density with a plate compactor and verify with spot density tests when possible.

Use the nonwoven geotextile under the aggregate; do not omit the fabric where fine soils can pump into the base.

Confirm finished elevations against the intended outlet and record the fall across the pad.

Slope and Grading Guidelines (specifics)

Grade governs how rapidly surface water leaves the pad and how much erosion develops at outlets.

Recommended slope targets:

  • Small pads and bale stations: 1–1.5% finished slope.
  • Fenceline feeder lines and short lanes: 1.5–2% to speed runoff.
  • Long drive aisles and loader access: 1–2% cross slope to reduce crown and wheel rutting.
  • Tie-ins to drainage outlets: provide continuous fall to the outlet, avoid flat saddles.
  • Swales and diversion channels: grade swale invert to match peak flow routing; provide erosion protection at outlets.

Note: sample grade diagrams and photos will be provided in the next section for layout reference.

Drainage Systems (French Drains, Swales, Underdrains) for a Bale Feeding Area That Stays Dry All Year

Effective drainage prevents surface saturation, reduces mud, and limits nutrient-loaded runoff from the pad.

A practical toolkit for pads includes surface swales, French drains, perforated underdrains, open ditches, culverts, and raised pads, chosen to match soil texture and water-table behavior.

French drain construction should use 4" perforated pipe laid on a 2% fall where possible, enclosed in a 6–12" clean gravel envelope and wrapped with nonwoven geotextile to resist fines migration.

Swales should be graded at 1–3% side slope with depth sized to peak runoff; for a small 20x20 pad a 12" deep swale with vegetation and check-vents handles short-duration storms.

Tie drainage to existing culverts or field ditches at a low point and protect the outlet with riprap or a fabricated headwall to prevent scour.

When the water table stays high through spring, add a perforated underdrain at the subgrade with 1–2% slope to intercept subsurface flow before it reaches the surfacing layer.

  • Surface swale — best for gentle sheet flow and small pads.
  • French drain — use for perimeter subsurface diversion and localized seepage control.
  • Perforated underdrain — select when seasonal high water requires subgrade relief.
  • Open ditch — economical for high-volume conveyance to distant outlets.
  • Culvert — use to cross lanes or connect to roadside drainage.
  • Raised pad — choose when elevation change is the simplest way to avoid saturation.
Drain Type Typical Components Pipe Size/Slope Guidelines Best Use Cases
Surface swale Graded earth channel, grass lining, occasional check dams Grade 1–3%; 12" depth example for small pad Small pads, sheet flow management, low-cost option
French drain 4" perf pipe, 6–12" clean gravel envelope, geotextile wrap 4" pipe at ~2% slope toward outlet Perimeter seepage control, subsurface diversion around pads
Perforated underdrain 4" perf pipe, drain gravel, geotextile, access sump if needed 1–2% slope to a collection point High water table sites, saturated subgrades
Culvert outlet Corrugated pipe, headwall, riprap apron, outlet channel Match culvert diameter to flow; provide positive fall to ditch Crossings, tie-ins to field ditches and road drains

French Drain Design Basics

A correctly built French drain bypasses subsurface flow and prevents water logging of the pad base.

Check the system after heavy rain for silt accumulation, reduced flow at the outlet, nor mal odor indicating clogging, and surface bulging that signals pipe blockage.

  • Pipe: 4" perforated PVC or corrugated HDPE, sloped to the outlet.
  • Gravel: 6–12" clean, washed gravel envelope around the pipe.
  • Geotextile: nonwoven fabric wrapped to prevent fine migration.
  • Outlet: stable low-point connection with riprap or headwall, accessible for inspection and flushing.

Surfacing Options to Keep a Bale Feeding Area Dry All Year

Surface selection balances upfront cost, longevity and how quickly water moves off the pad.

Many DIY write-ups skip numeric specs for depths and materials; this section provides concrete thicknesses, fabric placement and performance expectations so operators can pick the right build for herd traffic and climate.

Choose a surfacing strategy based on traffic intensity, budget and drainage needs.

  • Compacted aggregate — Durable subbase, good load distribution; requires geotextile and 6–12" compacted depth.
  • 3/4" crusher-run (dense graded) — Cost-effective base layer; compacts well, resists pumping when placed 6–8" thick.
  • 2–4" crushed-rock wearing course — Provides skidding resistance and surface drainage; place over compacted base for wear protection.
  • Concrete 4–6" slab — Long-life, near-mud-free surface; slab over 4–6" compacted base and reinforced where vehicle traffic is expected.
  • Permeable pavers — High-performance for concentrated stations; pavers with 3–4" gravel infill allow infiltration and load support.
  • Plastic grid + gravel infill — Fast-install, reduces rutting and mud; grid plus 3–4" stone provides stable footing with moderate cost.
  • Rubber mats — Quick nonpermanent solution for feeder faces; limited lifespan under heavy traffic and needs good subbase.
  • Pallets/temporary surfacing — Lowest cost short-term fix; poor drainage and short service life, best for emergency use.

Typical numeric guidance: build a gravel pad with a 6–12" compacted base plus a 2–3" crushed-rock wearing course.

An 8" compacted base is a good compromise for cattle lanes.

Concrete pads perform well with a 4" slab on top of a 4–6" compacted base.

Place a nonwoven geotextile under aggregate to reduce soil migration and maintain surface integrity.

Option Typical Depth/Thickness Drainage Performance Estimated Life Approx. Cost/unit
Crusher-run gravel base 6–12" compacted Good 5–15 years $0.50–$1.50 / ft²
Crushed rock wearing course 2–3" over base Very good 3–8 years $0.30–$1.00 / ft²
Concrete slab 4" slab over 4–6" base Excellent 20+ years $6–$12 / ft²
Permeable pavers Pavers + 3–4" gravel infill Excellent (infiltration) 10–20 years $7–$15 / ft²
Recycled plastic grid Grid + 3–4" gravel infill Good 8–15 years $2–$6 / ft²

Roofed Hay Shelter and Feeder Design to Keep a Bale Feeding Area Dry All Year

A roofed shelter minimizes direct wetting of bales and reduces spoilage rates, protecting animal health and lowering feed replacement costs.

Simple design controls are roof pitch, overhang length, gutter placement, and secure post anchoring; these determine year‑round performance for rain and snow.

Competitor DIY posts set treated 4" posts in concrete and spaced corners about 5.5 ft apart; use that as a starting point but size posts and spacing to roof load and local snow loads.

  • Simple lean-to for single bale rows
  • Gable run-in for multiple bale stations and wind protection
  • Open-sided pavilion for high ventilation and easy loader access
  • Prefab metal lean-to for rapid install and low maintenance
  • Tarp alternatives with rigid frame for temporary or seasonal use
  • Portable hoop shelter for flexible placement and rotation grazing
  • Attached-to-barn roof extension to share existing structure and cover feed path

Roof pitch guidance: 4:12 minimum for reliable rain shedding, and 6:12 recommended in heavy snow zones; a 20‑ft run with a 6:12 pitch sheds snow quickly and reduces buildup.

Overhangs of 2–4 ft keep bale faces and feeder rings dry but increase snow drift on the lee side; plan windbreaks or shorter overhangs where drifting was observed.

Gutters and downspouts should discharge opposite the pad or into a swale or collection barrel, with roughly one downspout per 10–20 ft of gutter typical.

Post anchors: treated 4" posts set in concrete footings work for small shelters; space posts 5–8 ft apart depending on roof span, snow load and rafter sizing.

Feeder Layout, Bale Placement and Herd-Specific Plans to Keep a Bale Feeding Area Dry All Year

Layout must match herd size, equipment access and whether the manager prioritizes soil-building through dispersed bale placement or concentrates manure and traffic on a hardstand.

Designers should treat the pad as infrastructure with measurable footprints and traffic lanes sized for loaders and animal flow.

Small operations typically use single-station pads sized for one bale and easy loader access.

Medium operations benefit from linear lanes with multiple feeding stations and turning radii for tractors.

Large operations require a hardened hardstand with multiple feeding rows, separation of feed and manure handling areas, and dedicated runoff collection.

  • Feeder spacing: place feeder centers to allow 6–8 ft between bale edges at the feeding face to permit animal movement.
  • Bale center spacing: stagger bales 12–20 ft to reduce competition and trampling.
  • Traffic lanes: provide clear loader lanes at least 10–12 ft wide; 14–16 ft for two-way equipment.
  • Loader access width: plan 12–14 ft turning radii for skid-steers and small tractors.
  • Rotation cells: design multiple stations or cells to rotate feeding and allow pad rest.
  • Perimeter fencing: direct animal flow and protect adjacent pastures from heavy traffic.
  • Water access: place water at least 50 ft from feeding pad to limit concentrated manure.
  • Shelter placement: orient shelters to prevailing wind and drainage patterns with 2–4 ft overhang.
  • Emergency access: maintain a 12–16 ft access route for equipment and animal movement.
Herd Size Recommended Pad Footprint Feeder Type Notes
Small (1–10 head) 12 × 20 ft per bale station Single bale ring or small trough Low cost; easy rotation; feeder at pad edge for runoff control
Medium (10–50 head) 20 × 40 ft lanes with multiple stations Multiple rings or long bunk Provides loader access and rotation cells; manage drainage between lanes
Large (50+ head) 50 × 100 ft hardened hardstand with rows Multiple feeding rows, mechanized unload Include underdrains, runoff collection and separate manure handling zones

Step-by-Step Build Guide, Tools and Materials List for a Bale Feeding Area That Stays Dry All Year

A concise build sequence keeps scope controlled and cost predictable for a 20 × 20 ft pad.

Quantified material calculations and a clear tool list allow crews to bid, rent or DIY with confidence.

The checklist below moves from subgrade to finished surfacing and shelter tie‑in.

  1. Mark and clear the 20 × 20 ft footprint and remove topsoil to expose stable subgrade.
  2. Rip or scarify compacted clay to 6–12 inches where needed and verify subgrade firmness.
  3. Set final grade with a minimum 1% fall and stake control elevations to the chosen outlet.
  4. Lay a nonwoven geotextile roll (20 × 50 ft) across the footprint, overlapping seams 12 inches.
  5. Place an 8" compacted crusher‑run base; spread in 2–3" lifts and compact each lift to ~95% Proctor equivalent.
  6. Install edge restraint (timber, paver edge or concrete curb) to retain aggregate.
  7. Add a perimeter French drain or 4" perforated underdrain where seasonal saturation is observed; slope pipe 1–2% to outlet.
  8. Place a 2" crushed-rock wearing course and compact to final grade, confirming surface slope to swales or outlet.
  9. Position shelter post locations and set treated posts in concrete footings for stability; typical post spacing for small shelters is about 5.5 ft between corners.
  10. Assemble roof framing, fasten roofing sheets and fit gutters with downspouts routed away from the pad into a swale or collection.
  11. Install feeder rings or bunk attachments and finalize animal traffic lanes with 10–14 ft loader access.
  12. Inspect final pad after a storm, adjust outlet protection (riprap) and document baseline performance metrics.

Core material math for the 20 × 20 ft pad: 400 ft² × 0.6667 ft (8" base) = 266.7 ft³ ≈ 9.9 yd³ of base aggregate.

Wearing course: 400 ft² × 0.1667 ft (2") = 66.7 ft³ ≈ 2.5 yd³ of crushed rock.

Small post footings can be formed with one 60‑lb bag of concrete per post for shallow anchors (4 bags total) or sized to local frost and snow loads.

Tools, timeline and a coarse cost sketch help finalize logistics.

Required tools: plate compactor, skid steer/tractor or small excavator, plate tamper, posthole digger, level or laser, wheelbarrow, and hand tools.

Expected timeline: 1–2 days with hired equipment and crew, or 3–5 days DIY with rented machines and a helper crew.

Item Quantity for 20x20 Unit Unit Cost (est.) Total Cost (est.)
Nonwoven geotextile (20 × 50 ft roll) 1 roll $40 $40
Base crusher‑run stone (8" compacted) 10 yd³ $35 $350
Crushed‑rock wearing course (2") 2.5 yd³ $45 $113
4" perforated drain pipe 40 ft $3 $120
Drain gravel (trench/backfill) 1 yd³ $50 $50
Concrete bags for posts (60 lb) 4 bag $5 $20
Treated posts (4" or 4x4 equivalent, 8') 4 each $25 $100
Roofing sheets (metal or corrugated) 6 each $30 $180
Gutter and downspout kit 1 set $150 $150
Fasteners, anchor hardware, small items 1 kit $75 $75

Maintenance, Seasonal Checklist and Troubleshooting for a Bale Feeding Area That Stays Dry All Year

Routine seasonal maintenance preserves drainage performance, limits forage spoilage, and reduces concentrated nutrient loads near waterways.

Lone Tree Hill managers left bales to decompose through winter–spring, which requires scheduling pad rest periods and monitoring regrowth before returning livestock.

After heavy rain inspect the pad within 24–48 hours and again at seven days to catch developing saturation or drainage clogging.

  • Pre-winter inspection (roof, gutters, edge restraints)
  • Gutter and downspout cleanout before freeze-up
  • Regrade low spots and refill settled areas as needed
  • Top up gravel wearing course where rutting appears
  • Check underdrains and French drain outlets for siltation
  • Rodent and pest checks around stored bales and shelters
  • Replenish bedding zones and swap out contaminated areas
  • Inspect posts, fasteners and roof flashings after storms
  • Inspect pad within 24–48 hours after heavy rain and again at 7 days
  • Record pad use, repairs and aggregate additions for annual review

Seasonal operations include winterproof feeding actions and snow management around feeders such as leaving a 1–2 ft snow buffer at the pad perimeter to limit drifting into animal traffic lanes.

Roofed shelters sized and pitched for local loads reduce labor and spoilage; in heavy snow areas use a 6:12 pitch to promote shedding and limit roof-loading.

Regrade or add aggregate on a 1–3 year interval depending on herd traffic and rainfall intensity.

If surface wet spots, erosion, feeder undermining or icing occur consult the troubleshooting table and document repairs in the maintenance log.

Problem Likely Cause Quick Fix When to Call Contractor
Persistent wet spot Blocked underdrain or poor subgrade Clear outlet, remove silt, inspect pipe flow If flow not restored after cleaning or pipe replacement needed
Erosion at outlet High velocity discharge, no riprap Install temporary riprap and regrade channel Contractor for headwall, permanent outlet stabilization
Feeder undermining Concentrated runoff, insufficient edge restraint Add aggregate, extend edge restraint, reroute gutters Structural repair if posts or feeder foundations fail
Icy pad Poor drainage or frozen surface melt/refreeze Improve drainage, apply sand/grit in high-traffic zones When engineering modifications to slope or underdrain are required

Biosecurity, Manure and Runoff Management for a Bale Feeding Area That Stays Dry All Year

Site placement should keep feeding areas outside the local riparian buffer and away from primary drainage paths to reduce nutrient delivery to surface water.

Lone Tree Hill managers left bales to decompose through winter–spring and rotated feeding locations to avoid concentrated manure buildup near outlets, reducing visible runoff and improving regrowth in test plots.

Manure handling must separate collection points from outlets and downstream receptors, with piles or stacks sited and managed to minimize leachate and vector attraction.

Operators should verify state and local buffer distances, permitting thresholds, and any NPDES or agricultural runoff rules that apply to their operation before activating a pad.

  • Manure removal and stacking: collect frequently, locate piles 50–100 ft from outlets, grade piles to shed leachate away from drains.
  • Buffer strips: maintain vegetated buffer between pad and waterways per local rule to intercept sediment and nutrients.
  • Rodent‑resistant hay storage: elevate bales 12–18 in on pallets or cribbing and store under metal‑roofed shelter with closed ends.
  • Pest traps and exclusion: deploy bait stations and seal feed bins; inspect monthly during warm season.
  • Runoff collection: route gutter and downspout flow to swales, rain barrels, or French drains away from the pad outlet.
  • Composting schedule: rest pad 30–90 days between events; manage manure piles for active composting when applied offsite.
  • Recordkeeping for nutrient loads: log bale weights, manure volumes, dates, and field application locations for nutrient accounting.
  • Permits to check: consult NPDES thresholds, state agricultural runoff permits, and local zoning or manure‑handling regulations.

1 How to Build a Bale Feeding Area That Stays Dry All Year!

This section supplies three scaled example plans, a worked cost worksheet for a 20 × 20 ft pad and a concise list of common construction mistakes that many DIY posts omitted.

Numbers match realistic unit prices and material math so managers can budget, bid or decide when to hire a contractor.

Sample cost worksheet worked example for a 20 × 20 ft pad (materials only): base aggregate 10 yd³ × $35/yd³ = $350.

Wearing course 2.5 yd³ × $45/yd³ = $113.

Geotextile roll = $40.

4" perf pipe 40 ft × $3/ft = $120.

Drain gravel 1 yd³ = $50.

Posts and concrete = $120 (posts $100 + concrete $20).

Roofing, gutters and hardware ≈ $405.

Materials subtotal ≈ $1,198; add equipment rental ($150–$400) and labor if contracted.

Contractor vs DIY: contractor bids commonly run 25–45% above DIY material+rental totals because of labor, overhead and warranty coverage; complex drainage, deep frost footings or large concrete slabs justify hiring licensed contractors at the higher end.

Before activating the pad run this final checklist: inspect after the first heavy rain, confirm outlet flow and riprap integrity, test compaction with a plate or penetrometer, and verify surface slope to the designated outlet.

  • Poor grade and flat spots that trap water
  • No geotextile allowing soil to migrate into aggregate
  • Undersized drains or lack of outlet fall
  • Insufficient gravel depth under heavy traffic
  • Wrong roof pitch for local snow loads
  • Weak post footings or undersized anchors
  • Poor outlet protection leading to scour at discharge
  • Ignoring animal flow and loader turning radii
  • No pest‑proof hay storage or elevated cribbing
  • Skipping a written maintenance and inspection plan
Plan Footprint Estimated Materials Est. Cost Range Build Time
Small 12 × 20 ft Geotextile, 4–6 yd³ base, 1 yd³ wearing course, single shelter $600–$1,200 1 day (with rented gear)
Medium 20 × 40 ft lanes Geotextile, 20–25 yd³ base, 4–6 yd³ wearing course, perimeter French drain $2,000–$5,000 2–3 days (crew or small contractor)
Large 50 × 100 ft hardened hardstand Geotextile, 80–120 yd³ base, underdrains, concrete tie-ins, multiple shelters $15,000–$50,000+ 1–3 weeks (contractor recommended)

Final Words

The builder starts by selecting the site, testing soil and water‑table, and setting targets such as 75% fewer spoiled bales and 95% winter pad uptime.

Key steps cover grading (1% min, 1.5–2% preferred), decompaction to 6–12 in, geotextile, and an 8" base plus 2–3" wearing course. Drainage uses 4" perforated pipe at about 2% slope or swales tied to outlets; shelter pitch and layout finalize the design.

Following the steps and numbers helps operators implement How to Build a Bale Feeding Area That Stays Dry All Year and cut feed losses.

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FAQ

Q: How to store hay without a barn, including winter and round-bale options?

Owners should keep bales off soil on pallets or a compacted gravel pad. Add 2–4 ft roof overhang, breathable tarps, and side ventilation for winter protection.

Q: What are low-cost DIY hay storage and round-bale container options?

Low-cost choices include elevated pallet stacks, tarp-plus-vented frames, DIY hoop shelters, and recycled-plastic grid on gravel. Seal bases against rodents and prioritize airflow to limit mold.

Q: How to store hay for rabbits?

Rabbit owners store flakes in breathable plastic bins with lids and small vents, elevated off the floor. Replace damp hay immediately and rotate stock weekly to maintain freshness.

Q: How to build a DIY round-bale feeder with a roof?

Build using treated posts set in concrete, spaced about 5.5–8 ft. Use a metal roof with 4:12 pitch minimum (6:12 for heavy snow), 2–4 ft overhang, and gutters directed away from the pad.

Q: How long will hay last if kept dry, and how to keep it dry in a paddock?

Properly dry hay retains quality 6–12 months, up to 18 months if perfectly cured and protected. In paddocks keep bales off soil, use gravel pads or roofed feeders, and site on well-drained high ground.

Q: Why should baling occur only when forage is completely dry?

Baling dry forage prevents mold and spontaneous heating that harm animal health and waste feed. Dry bales preserve nutrients and improve feed-cost efficiency by reducing spoilage.



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